Tryfan Evening

I decided to trust the Met Office forecast completely tonight: it said Tryfan's summit would be cloudy until about 7pm, when the clouds would break. Well, what a treat!

Lizzie Wild Camping

I seem to be getting a bit behind with my blogs, so it's time for a catch up. And this one's a grand microadventure! At the beginning of July, Lizzie came to stay with me for a few weeks. One of the things I've been promising was that we'd sleep on top of a mountain, so as soon as we could, we did.

We started just around tea time from a layby near the foot of Tryfan. The weather was mild, high pressure, warm and still. We ascended from the car park, first following the path, then bearing left. From here we cut across and up the gully over the top of Craig Bochlwyd, heading for to the Llyn (of the same name) that nestles in between Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Y Gribin. The ascent was quite steep, but I was surprised how easy it was to motivate Lizzie up the steep slope. Even Tangfastics were not required! Once over the top, a small but conquerable patch of marshy ground slowed us briefly, more because I didn't have waterproof footwear on, than anything Lizzie couldn't cope with. Once beyond this, we arrived at the outlet of the Llyn, and continued westward.

On the west side of the lake is a perfect camping venue: a large and flat ancient moraine heap, deposited about 10,000 years ago by a dwindling glacier at the end of the last Ice Age. Since then, nature has taken it's course, covering the rock with enough soil and grass to get a pegs into. Close cropping by the native sheep and goats have transformed it into something of a perfect camping venue, where the grass is short and rivals most commercial campsites (even those elsewhere in the valley) and which charge for the privilege. The wind shelter is also pretty good from the mountainous amphitheatre surrounding the Cwm. I pitched my Wild Country Zephyros 2 quickly, then fed us both on my small but perfectly-formed MSR microrocket: First Lizzie had chicken noodles, while I prepared my usual roast vegetable couscous with a packet of instant potato and leek soup (700 calories right there!). A small circle of fire-charred stones, left by a not-so-environmentally-conscious previous visitor, acted as my windshield.

The ambience of this place is slightly strange at this time of summer. The shadow cast by Y Gribin onto the cliffs of Bristly Ridge and Glyder Fach doesn't seem to change very much. The angle of the ridge must exactly match that at which the sun sets. This means that half of the cwm is in shade and half in sun, all evening, right up until the moment when the sun disappears, leaving an instant, chilly twilight.

Despite wearing my down jacket, Lizzie was soon getting cold, so as the blue sky faded, we settled down in our sleeping bags.

Lizzie slept like a log right through until about 7. I, however, was awake just before dawn, and able to sample the sunrise, a spectacle of almost the same light as sunset.

The wind had stirred slightly in the night, and was now quite a stiff breeze. I wasn't keen to hang around with a potentially chilly 8 year old, so after a fairly basic breakfast of croissants and cereal bars, we headed back to the car and home, a little weary but happy.

Scrambling Snowdonia Spring Bank Holiday

This May Spring Bank Holiday was the first time that my ML (S) Training group had been able to get together since August. The group consists of Mark (who lives 'dahn sahf') and Rob, who is now North Wales based, and with whom I have managed at least 1 QMD (reported elsewhere in this blog).

So what was the plan? 2 QMDs involving lots of scrambling, a minimum 5 hours, and possibly some navigation.

You'll have to excuse the brevity: it's almost a week since this outing and I've had another tiring mountain day today. So I'll let the pictures do the talking, as much as I can!

Sunday: Tryfan and Glyder Fach

The route for today was North Ridge of Tryfan, Bristly Ridge, then descent by Y Gribin. I asked whether we could do an alternative start, especially because I've done the standard North Ridge start a couple of times. So instead, we headed around the right base of Milestone Buttress and took in the dark, foreboding, soggy, but excellent (despite the midges!) Milestone Gully. This is a 50m grade 2 scramble over wet but grippy rock. Mark was a little wary about the exposure, but we'll forgive him because it's the first time he's been in the mountains for about 8 months!

We gained the main North Ridge just below the Cannon, then carried on over, gaining confidence as we continued scrambling and moving over the rock. We passed a group practicing protected climbing (MIA assessment group?) near the north summit. Once we'd overcome some interesting climbing challenges, we arrived at the main summit, with Adam and Eve on the east edge. I stood atop one, which is the closest I've come to making the step from left to right; Rob, however, gained his 'Freedom of Tryfan' honours with aplomb, stepping between the monoliths faster than my camera could take a single picture - hence the following couple:

We continued rapidly down the south side of Tryfan, not adhering to the edge and aiming to gain some time to keep us on track. Next up was Bristly Ridge, a grade 1 scramble that can be very dangerous. A couple of sources have since mentioned that one of the gullies has a very dangerous and loose block: unfortunately, we were unaware of this fact at the time; fortunately, today was not the day for the block to fall. After scrambling out of the gullies, we gained the pinnacles after which the ridge was named, and continued to the summit.

Once atop Bristly Ridge, we were gifted clear skies and fantastic views, so much so that the Cantilever Stone was simple to find. The rock around the Cantilever was completely dry, which made getting onto it much easier than the last time I tried, which I think was in heavy rain, or ice, or something, earlier this year. Anyway: dry rock = easy cantilever pics.

We then headed to the summit proper of Glyder Fach (something else that I rarely do), traversed that, then scrambled over Castell Y Gwnt too en route to Y Gribin. Here we descended rapidly, covering the ground without mishap, gaining the path back to the Milestone Buttress car park. The day was rounded off nicely with refreshments at the Siabod Cafe: for me, an indulgent hot chocolate with everything (cream & marshmallows) as well as a large piece of (well-earned, I think) Lemon Meringue Cake. Ah!

Monday: Cwm Glas, Crib Goch, and Crib Y Ddysgl

Today's route started from Cromlech Boulders in the Pass, up the beautiful and serene Cwm Glas, crossed to ascend the screes to Crib Goch's North Ridge, then continued the main traverse of Crib Goch and Crib Y Ddysgl, finishing with a descent back toward Cwm Glas via Gyrn Las.

We met at Siabod Cafe for approx 0830, and bumped into Paul Poole, one of the reasons that we were here gaining Quality Mountain Days for our Mountain Leader qualifications, for a brief chat. However, our main concern was the weather: As I'd driven along the Ogwen Valley, there'd been very heavy downpour; but the forecast was for clear weather after 9am. So we tarried a while before setting off for our start location in the Llanberis Pass.

The walk started from the Cromlech Boulders, halfway down (or up, if that's the direction you're travelling) the Llanberis Pass, just after (or before!) Cromlech Bridge. The lay-by parking had just filled, but there was still lots of space between the boulders for us. The heavy rain (both this morning's, and overnight) meant that Afon Nant Peris was very full and not easily crossable, a stark contrast to earlier in the year when it had been easy to step from stone to stone. We chose not to get our feet wet at this early stage and crossed at the bridge. 

Afon Nant Peris in flood after overnight heavy rain

The slopes up to Cwm Glas are fairly steep, and there are no real paths, only boulder fields and sheep tracks. But it's a place full of beauty and solitude. We saw only 3 other people descending, probably from a wild camp.

Heading up Cwm Glas Mawr

The best bit about Cwm Glas, though, is when you've finally scrambled up past the waterfalls, usually panting from the steep ground, and discover: Llyn Glas! (Apologies for the errant finger...)

Llyn Glas, backed with Crib Goch, and a very naughty digit

We took some time to catch our breath, enjoy the views and absorb the atmosphere around Cwm Glas. It is quiet and serene, despite being on Snowdonia's busiest mountain massif. I've even been here when there's been 70mph southwesterly winds forecast, meaning this spot was largely sheltered by the surrounding ridges. The occasional gusts whipped up the surface of the lake into racing, dancing wisps before they were just as quickly blown away.

We crossed the ash flow tuffs, a stream or two, over to the base of the scree slopes of North Ridge. This scree was packed. It wasn't the usual large lumps that, as you step up 2 feet, send you a foot back down the mountain. Oh no: it was packed, small, gritty scree, but just as treacherous to ascend. Each step carefully up, using your boot edges, trying not to step too high, which would result in a slide potentially further back than you started. Small steps, small steps...

Eventually, the hell of this scree slope ended, and became the sharp but friable rock that is the North Ridge. This route is frequented far less than the main route, so the polish was minimal. A cool breeze from our left (the east) cleared away the midges and soon we had arrived where the east ridge meets the main traverse. 

To begin at the beginning: of the Main Ridge (apologies to Dylan Thomas)

Here we were lucky: the winds were light enough to almost stroll along the tops, taking care with each step and gently transferring weight from foot to foot. Sometimes the steps were a bit slopey so our hands were used, and at one point we courteously passed a (French?) couple who were moving a bit more cautiously than we. 

A small bold step on an otherwise simple and straightforward scramble

Soon, the ridge turns into a number of pinnacles. You could walk around these; we chose not to, to keep the experience and fun of hands on rocks going. And then the path drops down then continues up onto a 'bold' traverse. You wouldn't want to slip here(!), but the rock is wide, the handholds are good and the protection from the wind is excellent. And it's a fun bit of good climbing.

Reflecting on Crib Goch (and the 20 people now on it)

We continued on, over Crib Y Ddysgl, with more scrambling. By the time we had arrived at the end of the ridge proper, the cloud had descended. Now was our opportunity to NAVIGATE! We quickly found the Trig point in the fog, took a bearing of around 285 degrees for 100 metres or so, then changed direction to head directly north. This was enough to avoid falling over the cliff of Carnedd Ugain into Cwm Glas: this was our destination, just not so direct a route!

We walked to the end of the ridge, and lunched at Gyrn Las. We were still fairly solitary even here, despite being in full view of the tens of people trekking up the main Llanberis Path to the summit of Snowdon. 

Time now for some more Mountain Leader skills: Rob and I had both been down this route before, so Mark took the lead to get us safely down the steep ground of the east side of Gyrn Las, a task he completed with confidence. All that remained was for us to continue back down Cwm Glas, over to the Cromlech Boulders, jump in the car, and head back to Siabod Cafe for more post-mountain sustenance. Today's treat was the amazing soup (I forget which flavour, but I think it was Carrot and Coriander?), accompanied, of course, with another magnanimous hot chocolate with everything! 

Made it! Nice leading, Mark.

Postscript: not as brief as I'd thought. Oh well. To quote William Cowper: "If in this I have been tedious, it may be some excuse, I had not time to make it shorter."

Tryfan Mountaineering Day

Today I was joined by Craig, Jon and Glyn. The plan was to take a grand tour of the Tryfans. The weather was forecast to be good: dry, sunny, windless; and actually turned out to be even better than that! We met relatively late at the big layby on the A5 near SH668605. I'd expected there would be parking problems due to the bank holiday bringing out everyone, but there was sufficient space for us to park safely. We sorted out all our climbing gear and, looking at the weather, decided to ditch the big mountain boots in favour of walking shoes and trainers.

Once packed up, we headed the short walk to Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan). The path is easy to find as you head from the end of the layby, through the gate, then almost back to the farm to the second gate on the right in the fence. The ground here was a little damp, but not avoidably so.

Craig on Left Edge, Tryfan Fach (just out of the bright sunshine)

Little Tryfan was heaving! There were at least 10 pairs of climbers on this short rock crag. Luckily, our later arrival meant that most of the climbers were already near the top. We paired up, Glyn and Jon tackling the Mossy Crack (VS 4a), while I led Craig up the Left Edge (VDiff). The sun was not yet high enough in the sky to shine on the rock, but even so, it was not overly cold. I climbed the route in two pitches, mainly to get some practice in belay building, but my rope organisation skills could do with practice, too. I left Craig with a bit of a bird's nest of ropes for the last pitch! He was kind enough to let me know, though, so this was something else for me to think about and practice for the rest of the day.

Heading to Tryfan from Tryfan Fach

Once Craig and I finished the route, Jon and Glyn were there waiting. We joined up then headed toward Tryfan main. We scrambled over the final top of Tryfan Bach and toward the Heather Terrace path. There was a little bit of wet peat in the gully between the two, but we were able to skip over most. We continued along the Heather Terrace, identifying Bastow, Nor Nor and Green Gullies. There was one group of climbers just starting up Grooved Arete (obvious by the GA scratched on the rock). The start of North Gully was another 50m beyond.

Craig on an exposed and tricky pitch 2!

The North Buttress (VDiff) route starts in the second groove to the right of North Gully. Glyn chose to lead the VS variation in the first groove, which allowed Craig and I to start at the same time, keeping the two groups together. The climbing on the first pitch was fairly physical, with a few boot jams and a good amount of thrutching (such a good word!). The climb was mainly protected by slings: I like to tackle these old routes in the manner that they were originally climbed! The second pitch was good but, as a leader, had a bold step sideways to get up onto the arete. Craig took the easy option and climbed from the bottom of the Arete. The third pitch gave us two options: follow Glyn and Jon up the fairly blank small groove on the left, or take an obvious larger groove to the right. The larger groove looked easier, but had a 6 foot long fallen pinnacle resting in it: tapping it made a hollow sound. I was tempted to go this way but didn't like the consequences of this pinnacle falling off (to be fair, it probably weighed 250kg and was going nowhere), so I struggled a little but finally surmounted the arete again. Pitch four was then fairly straightforward and took us to the scramble section.

At this point in the route, there's a big, 50m scrambly gap in the route. By this time, it'd been a while since we'd heard from Jon and Glyn, so we assumed they were long gone. We scrambled up the path to Terrace Wall, and there they were, Jon belaying, Glyn halfway up, carefully considering the direct assult on the Belle Vue route (Beeline?, VS 5a). Craig and I watched for a bit and, realising that we were contributing nothing to help Glyn's route finding, referred to the route notes and easily found the quartz-slashed hanging boulder halfway up the wall. Pitch 5 was straightforward and dispatched quickly. Unfortunately, this was the first time we'd been in the shade all day (shaded by the main summit of Tryfan here) and the chill air was noticeable. Time to crack on back into the sun!

Craig on The Traverse

Pitch 6 is "The Traverse" pitch, and it's amazing! The capitals are there not because it's scary, but because it was worth naming it and they named it well. It basically takes you from the shadows around to the right of North Buttress to Belle Vue Terrace. The climbing is easy, with good places for hands and feet all along the route. The gear again is mainly slings. There's a bit of up-and-down route finding to follow, but it's all there. The main challenge lies in protecting your second for the traverse; oh, and not looking down! For me, this certainly was the pitch of the route, the exposed position balanced by the good holds, lack of polish and the Eastern Carneddau backdrop, especially on a clear day like today. It would be a worthwhile route just on its own (you can get to here by scrambling down the top of North Gully), and is comparable to pitches of Spiral Stairs on Dinas Cromlech.

On Belle Vue Terrace with Glyn

Once on the Terrace, I set up the belay, Craig started climbing, Glyn arrived, Jon arrived, and Craig arrived. We tackled the final pitch 7 relatively quickly: I used only 2 slings for this section in today's dry conditions, then friction-belayed Craig to our final destination. We sat and ate lunch at the top, enjoying the clear skies and breezeless warmth from the sun, before packing up and scrambling across the top of North Gully to bag the summit.

At the top of the route, before bagging the summit (behind)

Our descent route was via the south path with a slight rightward trend to gain the exit stream from Bochlwyd. Here I dunked my head into the cool waters of the llyn, by lying on a flat platform rock level with the surface: ah, refreshing! After a brief rest and recce of the Glyder Fach cliff for future days out, we route marched back to the parking after a long, tiring, but completely satisfying day.